Antigua family holidays: Packing a family-sized punch

Welcomes are big in Antigua despite its rather small size – it’s just 22km long. Stepping off the plane you're greeted by a warm blast of air, live calypso and an ice-cold fruit punch – all three will fast become firm friends. 

Antigua (pronounced Antigwa) is one of the quieter Caribbean islands and a great choice for families. Notable home-owners include Georgio Armani (we all struck a pose while sailing past), Eric Clapton and Oprah Winfrey, but the real stars are Antigua's 365 beaches, all public.

We found it hard to say no to some of the many excellent activities available, from the rainforest canopy tour with zip lines to the Subcat Antigua dives of up to 30m.

We particularly recommend Paddles, a fun yet educational eco-adventure involving guided kayaking trips in the mangroves, the natural water filters for the island's coral reefs (which also keep the sand so white). The mangroves are a bit like a nursery for barracuda, sea cucumbers and more, as well as being a feeding ground for hawksbill turtles (who feast on abundant turtle grass), exhausted after a night of laying eggs. We all held and examined a gargantuan starfish, which was hard and shell-like, not like the ones we see in UK rockpools. After kayaking, we were taken to the uninhabited Bird Island, where Antigua's only snake, the (harmless)  'Antiguan racer', lives, having been brought back from near extinction. We saw one on a hike to the top. From the island we snorkelled the reefs, and on our return journey we saw pelican nests, stuffed full with goofy grey young, from the boat.

There's also Tropical Adventures, the island's top excursions operator, whose trips include the Land & Sea Safari, with an island tour by 4x4, taking you into the jungle and stopping off high above Nelson's Dockyard with its superb views, then an afternoon on the $1-million catamaran 'Mystic' (see above photo), with snorkelling and an on-board BBQ.

Antiguans, we discovered, celebrate really well, with festivals for almost every occasion and all ages, including sailing week in April, Carnival in July, and a literary festival in November. There are also kite, food, comedy, and cultural festivals, among them a huge music festival in June, which Lionel Ritchie and Shaggy played in 2008. Antiguans of all ages are famously sports mad, and the countless sports tournaments include cricket and football at the headline-hitting Viv Richards Stadium, which has a capacity of 20,000 people – almost a third of all residents. Even our guide had just retired from international athletics.

Other fun regulars not to miss are Sundays at Shirley Heights (4-10pm), with steel bands and reggae, a party atmosphere, and an open-air BBQ. For beach sports, try Sand Haven beach on Sundays and Tuesdays, hosting cricket, football or volleyball, plus nightly music.

Antigua’s hotel accommodation is well geared up for families, with superb childcare facilities and family-friendly amenities. The St James's Club on Mamora Bay is a great mid-range option for families, with superb sports facilities. The remote 40-hectare resort offers two beaches (one on the Atlantic, one on a sheltered lagoon), a terrific activities program, kids’ clubs (ages 2-12), a teen club, 4 restaurants and a variety of bars. Kids’ club activities include crab hunting, nature walks, beach Olympics, movies, and crafts with shells. Adults can enjoy Caribbean dance classes, water aerobics, cricket and beach volleyball, plus regular entertainment in the evenings. If you don't fancy walking somewhere within the resort, you can just ask to be dropped off by buggy.

The Verandah Resort and Spa, one of the newest five-star hotels on Antigua, overlooking Dian Bay on the north east of the island, is a great option for families looking for a luxurious and chic retreat. All of the spacious and elegant 200 suites sleep up to 4 and have balconies, plus there are interconnecting doors should you need to book two. The superb spa smells delicious, and the large fitness suite has the latest equipment. The Verandah takes its environmental responsibilities seriously, too, boasting a desalination plant, converting waste to grey water for watering plants, using solar power and choosing local produce where possible.  

Carlisle Bay, on the unspoilt south coast of the island, is truly stunning. Although it's pricey, nothing at this chic boutique hotel will disappoint any member of your family. Family Beach Suites – stylish, sumptuous and enormous – can sleep up to 2 adults and 4 children, and offer a breathtaking view of the shallow bay. Many families bring grandparents or extended family. Tropical gardens, considered layout and manicured hedges protect privacy, and family accommodations are in specific zones, so you don’t have to worry about disturbing your neighbours. The cuisine is said to be the best on the island. Kids 6 months to 12 years are welcomed at ‘The Cool Kids Club’ by an incredible childcare team, and there are pre-teen activities at ‘Crew Blue’. There are also 4 mini-tennis courts and a ‘screening room’ with Italian leather seats showing daily kids' movies. It's not surprising that Carlisle Bay was voted ‘Best Hotel of the World’ in the Tatler Travel Guide 2005.  

The Jolly Beach Resort & Spa is a happy resort on a lively sandy beach, very popular with UK visitors. Its good-value all-inclusive deals draw families year after year. We recommend the junior suites or a 2-bedroom Beachfront Cottage for families. We spent some time at the Jolly Kidz Club, for ages 3 to 12, with younger children entertained downstairs (with terrific dressing-up supplies, a girls' room, a boys' room, and a multi-functional playroom), and pre-teens upstairs with games consoles, table football and air hockey. There’s even a kitchen for pizza nights, preparing snacks together, and the ‘kidz chef corner’. Staff run a great daytime activity programme, plus regular evening events such as the Kids Pirate Party.  

Or for ultimate luxury, consider staying at Curtain Bluff, open for only six months of the year, or Jumbo Bay, set on its own island with just 50 rooms, suites and villas.

You may have heard grumbles about lengthy queues at immigration and for departures, particularly when multiple flights arrive at the island’s only airport. Indeed, Antigua is so popular with Brits and other travellers that VC Bird International Airport is at times overwhelmed. However, it has added a new luggage carousel, and there are further plans for expansion and other improvements.

Direct flights depart from Gatwick several times a week, or there are daily flights via Barbados. Don't let the longish flight put you off either. On our flight to Antigua with Virgin Atlantic, the crew seemed happy to keep an eye on toddlers who went off on a wander (even when toddling upstairs to Upper Class!). We recommend upgrading from economy to premium economy, for the wider seats and extra 15cm leg room, as well as booking places in the Virgin V ROOM (see below).

Happy holidays!
by Take the Family

Antigua with Virgin Holidays: Seven nights including scheduled flights with Virgin Atlantic from London Gatwick direct to Antigua, and accommodation at the St James Club on an all-inclusive basis with transfers, starts at £1,120. Prices are pp based on two adults travelling and sharing a standard room and includes all applicable taxes and fuel surcharges, which are subject to change. Prices are based on departure on 09 Sept 2009. Click here to book.

Start your holiday early by booking a Virgin airport lounge (V ROOM) at Gatwick. It’s easy to keep the kids occupied as there’s a dedicated play area, internet access, table football, Sony video games, and complimentary pastries, hot sandwiches, fresh fruits, cereal and yoghurt, soft drinks and coffee. It’s available for Virgin customers flying to the Caribbean, Las Vegas and Florida up to 3 hours before departure –  just don't enjoy it too much and miss your flight! Ages 12 and up cost £17, kids 2 to 11 £10.

Antigua and Barbuda Tourism Authority

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