"There it is!" Parc Vean's sign beamed back from our, (full beam), headlights, on our arrival, along with the occasional bat, as dusk rapidly turned to darkness, on the lane down to our (for a few days at least) cottage moments from the sea. We were the lucky ones staying at this luxury self catering bungalow - What a retreat!
We opened the wrought iron gates, and drove through with a sense of excitement and achievement. There was ample space for 2 cars inside the gate, or you can drive right up to Parc Vean's back door by heading left. To our relief, the external lighting was excellent and all on sensors, so we had no trouble finding our way in, and had a tiny glimpse of the upcoming grandeur. ...hurry up daylight.
We were welcomed by a lovely complimentary hamper, packed with English breakfast tea, a bottle of white wine, Cornish spring water, aromachologie shampoo and conditioner, pure vegetable soap, and even 2 pairs of adult slippers - mine went straight on after the long drive!. Even the huge bar style fridge offered creamy Cornish milk, to help us all settle in. The kids bedroom was enchanting, even with it's own puppet theatre, and cute rabbit lamp, whilst the adult rooms were stylish and comfortable. A look around revealed the living room and drawing room, with bay windows, complete with a mac, sofas, tv, (but no reception at this Cornish outpost), dvd player and piano, and a family bathroom. An early night was had by all. I think the bottle of wine helped, but I have absolutely no doubt that the double bed in the master bedroom was one of the most comfortable I have ever slept in.
The morning revealed the true splendor of the grounds, and not to mention their scale! Excitedly descending the 20ft of stone steps from the house, (you will need to hold hands of really small ones), and were amazed that around every corner was something of excitement. It took us a good 25 minutes to walk all around the gardens, discovering large lawn areas with a trampoline and terrifically spongy grass, a massive fenced pond, potting sheds and greenhouses, with paths through the giant established and rivera style planting. Through the wooden gate was a huge safe field-sized area, with a wooden swing, a football goal , and a gynormous massive wooden fort perfect for defending against pesky parents! And high above stands the proud Parc Vean.
We had taken some groceries with us, so in the morning made a huge breakfast to set us all up for a day of exploring. The kitchen was tremendously well equipped, with pastel shade pots and pans, a smeg oven, a magi mix, dualit toaster and all manner of other quality products, from new to eclectic vintage pieces. We had taken our own mp3 and docking station, but there already were speakers in the kitchen for an ipod - we're big fans of kitchen music.
We headed down the lane on foot, blooming with bluebells, whitebells and pink campian; An easy 10 minute slope down to the beaches........Yes there are two! Both of which are also accessible by pushchair, bicycles (provided), and by car, (Land Rover Defender also provided!). The nearest, West Portholland, was pleasantly deserted - the only visitors were an elderly couple with a gang of scottie dogs, sheltering from the off shore breeze. It is possible to scrabble across the rocks between the two beaches, (the other having icecreams in the summer), or for those less adventurous there is a road, decorated with vibrant orange gorse. The other beach at East Portholland has rows of cottages, and even a telephone box, and post office albeit only open on Tuesdays from 9am to midday. Even the car park has an honesty box, with a suggested fee of £2 a day. Oh the delight of being so far from armies of traffic wardens! Another great beach to visit is Porthluney Cove, south facing and sheltered, with safe bathing in calm conditions.
They say that a time spent at Parc Vean is worth twice as long anywhere else. It is a true retreat, and with a bit of planning there are many local services to help you make even more of your holiday time. We've always fancied visiting the ' Lost Gardens of Heligan', which is just 2 miles away, but whilst sitting at the table overlooking Parc Vean's grounds, we kind of felt like we were there already, plus we had everything to hand we could possibly need.
We deliberately kept rushing around out of the equation, and spent time relaxing and playing at the house or on walks in and around the local area and of course the beaches. We enjoyed the seclusion, the sumptuous facilities, the extensive DVD library, and even had a tinkle on the piano, and of course Parc Vean's fantastic ambience. This is a place where your families can really be themselves. You could be as loud or as quiet as you wanted to be, and enjoy terrific bird song, pheasants and wildlife that abound. Had we had more time, we would have definately taken advantage of Parc Vean's own sailing boat, the family of bicycles, and I think I even spotted a boogie board in one of the sheds.
Would we return? Oh yes, most certainly. Parc Vean has a wonderful art deco feel - you can imagine it being built for an artist's retreat, or a novelist's hideaway in the 1920s, and it's seclusion remains. It would be a great family getaway at any time of year, and I'm not sure, even at the height of summer, if one would notice any hustle or any bustle, making it the perfect retreat for every member of your brood. This is honestly a genuinely rare retreat, not to be missed.
by Sam Redmond-Lyon (& family)
See Take the Family's destination guide to Cornwall.
For some great days out, eating out, or nearby attractions, also consider: Within walking distance -The Lugger and The Ship Inn at Portloe. A short drive away, but well worth it if you're in the area for lunch or supper are - Hotel Tresanton, The Rosevine. For days out consider St Mawes (and a ferry to Falmouth), Truro, The Eden Project, The Lost Gardens of Heligan or the National Maritime Museum.
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