As holidays go, it did not get off to a promising start. In fact, when
my parents suggested a last hoorah before I went off to university and
started dodging both daylight and their calls, a road-trip across
middle-of-nowhere France
was not quite what I had in mind. Especially a trip in a surprisingly
small people-carrier that included both my grandparents and their
notoriously travel-sick dog – a trip during which I quickly realised
that, as the youngest, I would be relegated to what I can only describe
as the boot, with the thoughtful addition of a single seat facing the
wrong way. The dog (due to the aforementioned travel sickness) rode
shotgun.
But what I’d failed to appreciate in my typical teenage surliness at
being forced to drive for hundreds of kilometres with my knees round my
ears was the utter beauty of the French countryside. Never having been
beyond Brittany,
I was caught off guard by the picturesque nature of French provincial
life as we neared central France and our final destination in the
Corrèze département of the Limousin region, Davignac – a town of around
200 people, seemingly outnumbered by cows by around 10:1.
The sheer density of untouched forest surrounding the old stone town
gave the possibility for days of losing yourself in walks and fairy-tale
architecture, while the history of the area is fascinating. Our visit
coincided with the annual summer festival, during which a woman selling
cookery books explained the curious naming of local towns such as
‘Meymac near Bordeaux’ (in fact, the two places are 350km apart). This
anomaly came about at a time when most people knew that Bordeaux
produced fantastic wine but had little idea of where it was situated,
let alone how far away it was from Meymac – and the simple change in
name, engineered by a cunning wine salesman, lead to a single bottle of
Meymac-près-de-Bordeaux being sold for more than 70 francs (the
average daily wage at the time being 3 francs). The story in part
explains the wealth and architecture of the region compared with others
relatively close by.
The festival itself was fairly small but infinitely charming, with lots
of traditional food and music – although I have to admit that this view
may have been swayed by the hours of wine-tasting that accompanied it.
The idea seemed to be that the drunker they got you for free, the more
expensive wine you’d buy of your own accord, and indeed, the number of
bottles we attempted to jam into the car to take home really don’t do
anything to disprove this theory.
It wasn’t an action-packed holiday, and there were several days when
there was nothing to do except read a book in the square, once the
forest had been exhausted of its walks and we once we’d exhausted of
swimming in the lake. But as it drew to a close, I began to realise,
much to my horror at having to admit it, that my mother had been right –
it was the perfect last family holiday, with incredible scenery,
incredible sunshine, extremely good wine and lots of quality family
time. Add in the festival barn dance and even the dog managed to look
cheerful.
PV Holidays has a family-friendly apartment complex, Les Belles Rives, with a swimming pool and free children’s activities, in the Corrèze.
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