Every island has the unspoilt, untourisy, rural places. You just have to find them. Our favourites are Crete, Rhodes, Kefallonia. The west is less tourisy than the East on Crete, however, we have had a couple of super holidays on the edge of Agious Nikolaous. We always self-cater and eat out at traditional tavernas away from harbours and the tourists. We eat where the Greeks go. We're soon off to Kalives on the west side - more of a small Greek town than tourist hot spot.