Les Menuires family holidays and breaks

Les Menuires is in the middle of Les Trois Vallées, the world’s biggest ski area, but though it rubs shoulders and shares a lift-pass with jolly British chalet favourite Méribel and uber-posh Courchevel, it’s a far cheaper way to ski the area. That used to be because it had the physical beauty of Stevenage, with lots of gloomy 1970s apartment blocks in the midst of pristine snow (made particularly obvious by the treeless, snowfield setting), but it’s much better now, with newer wood-and-stone architecture.

As a centre for family holidays, it’s ideal. It’s car-free, and lifts head off one way towards the resort of Val Thorens, and in the other to Meribel, then Courchevel. The slopes surrounding the village are some of the region’s easiest, with whole fields of green runs. There’s plenty of fun if you’re all skiing together, plus lots for energetic parents if the youngsters are in ski school.

The neighbouring, more modern (yet perversely more traditional) hamlet of Reberty is also a good choice, and attracts family-friendly tour operators.

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Today

11°C
53°F

Flying Time	3 hours
Timezone	GMT +1
Local Currency	Euro

What to do

When it comes to skiing, there are two beginner areas in the village, with five moving carpets and one free drag-lift. There is good family skiing around the village, up to La Masse or down to Saint Martin de Belleville, with blue and moderate red runs, all in an open, obstacle-free environment.

If you have more confident youngsters, you can also head off in either direction, to Val Thorens or Méribel. The latter tends to be the more family-friendly; its Altiport area with wide runs through the trees is a delight (we like to take a picnic lunch and sit on one of the log benches near the bottom). Fast families (or parents who’ve left their youngsters at ski school) can get to Courchevel, but you won’t get much time before having to chase back.

Les Menuires boasts France’s Family Plus label, meaning it has a wide choice of family activities and good, locally run childcare that make it unbeatable for family holidays. There’s a pool complex, which is always a good après-ski treat, as well as the Fun Park, with trampolines and suchlike. There’s also a free 4km toboggan run, the BK freestyle park, and the family Acticross ski obstacle course.

The Piou-Piou Club takes babies from 3 months, and kids 2.5+ can go to the active Village des Piou-Piou. Children 3+ can get lessons with the ESF, and there are also snow-bike rentals.

The village square hosts regular shows, fireworks and other events.

Where to stay

Les Menuires isn’t a place for quaint hotels; in fact, it’s not really a place for hotels at all. You come here if you want a family apartment. La Croisette is the original area; there’s still the (at best) uninspiring indoor shopping centre, but some of the worst buildings have been bulldozed, and new apartments and a focal-point church have made it a lot better.

As you get away from the centre, it gets prettier, with new but traditional architecture. The hillside hamlets of Reberty and Les Bruyères are charming little places in themselves. Reberty’s new 4-star chalet-style Hotel Kaya with its Le K restaurant is the best hotel in the resort, with a family suite.

Crystal offers a week in an apartment for a family of 4 from around £1,500. Ski Famille offers a week for a family of four at their three chalets in Reberty from around £2,500, including childcare, ski school drop off/pick up, and full chalet board, although end-of-season discounts bring that down to £2,000.

Free buses get you to the outer reaches of what has become a bit of a sprawl, while lifts stay open late and act as transport.

Photos

When

The slopes of the Three Valleys are relatively high (Les Menuires sits at 1,800m, with the high-point being the Val Thorens glacier at 3,230m) and you’ll find skiing from late November until well into April, though some of the beginner slopes around Les Menuires are big and open and can suffer from the sun later in the season. The slopes on La Masse above the resort keep their snow, and there is continued investment in snowmaking.

How

Eurostar runs Friday night, Saturday and Sunday ski trains to Moûtiers, the latter two still operating late enough for Easter family holidays.

If you’re flying, Geneva in Switzerland is the usual option from British airports. The 1.5hr flight from London is followed by a 3hr coach transfer (much of which is pretty and alpine), or you can do it quicker if you hire a car. Lyon is 2.5hrs from Les Menuires, Chambéry 2hrs, though there are fewer flight options at the latter, and some come with a price supplement on a package tour.

Eat

Les Menuires is worlds away from Courchevel with its Michelin-starred eateries. Most people come here for a reasonably priced ski holiday in an apartment, so most dining is done at the kitchen table, although the number of restaurants is gradually growing, reflecting the smartening up of the resort. The indoor centre at La Croisette has two decently priced pizza restaurants, Pizzeria La Bûche and La Perdrix Blanche.

Cost

Les Menuires is a relatively good-value way of experiencing Les Trois Vallées, especially if you choose self-catering accommodation for family holidays. For price indications, see above, Stay.

ByNick Dalton

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