Take the family to ski (especially at world-famous Whistler in the north of the province), hike or sail, or to try your hand at salmon-fishing. Located to the far, far west of Canada, British Columbia is a delightful land of untainted wilderness, with mountains, forest, coastal fjords, giant ranches, plains and immense lakes, and more flora and fauna than the rest of Canada put together. Perfect for family holidays, even if not round the corner.
It’s more or less all about the coast here: the interior is difficult to get to, and it’s hard to find somewhere to stay when you finally make it. Base yourself in beautiful Vancouver – most of the population does. Indeed, this city – host (with Whistler) to the 2010 Winter Games – frequently ranks among the world’s best cities to live in (in 2009, it was The Economist Intelligence Unit’s ‘Most Livable City’), and it’s a top spot for chilled-out family holidays with lots of outdoors activities and great eateries.
| Flying Time | 10 hours |
|---|---|
| Timezone | GMT -7 |
| Local Currency | Canadian Dollar |
Spend time getting to know Vancouver, dramatically sandwiched between ocean and mountains and boasting one of the world’s best standards of living. It’s often said of Vancouver that it’s one of the rare places where you could ski, windsurf and play golf on the same day. Its landmark Capilano Suspension Bridge is a pulse-quickening walkway over a canyon into a temperate rainforest park, where you can experience more walkways and bridges between giant tree trunks at Treetop Adventure, watch aboriginal crafts displays at the First Nations’ Cultural Center, see original totem poles, hunt for bugs and go exploring with an eco-guide.
The quintessential Vancouver family experience is Stanley Park, a world-famous park that despite its central location retains many giant trees from its days as a forest. There are also more totem poles, swimming beaches (Second Beach is best for families, with an outdoor pool with slides), a lagoon with ducks, raccoons and skunks, a mini-train, a kids’ farm and a seawall popular for Rollerblading, cycling and so on. It’s in this park that you’ll find Vancouver Aquarium, where you can encounter northern fur seals, Pacific dolphins, beluga whales, sea turtles, sea otters and more.
Pop over to lovely Vancouver Island and explore British Columbia’s picture-perfect capital, Victoria, or its other historic towns, for a slice of nostalgia. Charming Victoria is at the island’s southernmost tip: wander around its little streets, admiring the red double-decker buses and eating fish and chips – it’s just verging on a pastiche of a Cockney/Queen Victoria /Sherlock Holmes theme-park. Then head out to the beaches, walking trails and cedar forests, and go whale-watching or kayaking (you might be lucky, or unlucky, enough to share the sea with some orcas).
Visit Alert Bay on tiny Cormorant Island off the north-east coast of Vancouver Island, for a more authentic experience of the legacy of the First Nations – this is a centre for aboriginal culture, with lots of art and artefacts, including the world’s tallest totem pole. This is another good spot for whale-watching, eco-tours, kayaking, hiking and cycling.
If you're a fitness buff, the Grouse Grind is a famous steep uphill hike (nearly 3km) offering spectacular views. It's not for young children, but there there are other options for enjoying the views from Grouse Mountain on the north shore, including the Grouse Mountain Skyride (an 'aerial tram') and helicopter tours. The mountain is a good place to come in winter or summer for everything from sleigh-riding, snow-shoeing and ice-skating to watching birds-of-prey demonstrations, riding ziplines, or taking guided eco walks or visiting the wildlife refuge.
Ski in Whistler, widely regarded as one of the top resorts for family skiing holidays in the world. The 'sea to sky highway' between Vancouver and Whistler is a spectacular drive.
For skiing accommodation, see our Whistler page.
In Vancouver, luxurious family options for those looking for a night or two’s splurge include the Four Seasons, with a kids’ concierge, children’s menus, complimentary games and toys, and an indoor-outdoor pool, and the Fairmont Waterfront, with executive suites with sofabeds plus one- and two-bedroom suites, a year-round outdoor pool, the ‘Whale of a Time’ family package including a family pass to the aquarium, and even its own herb garden and bee colony producing more than 600lb of the sweet stuff for the hotel’s annual Honey Harvest.
For those on a more modest budget, 910 Beach Ave Apartment Hotel has a great location and offers more space and flexibility for families, with its suites including full kitchens and washer-driers. The Greenbier Hotel also has well-priced rooms with microwaves and fridges for up to 4, plus a spa. The Holiday Inn Hotel & Suites can offer two double beds in all categories of rooms, or studio suites with two double beds plus a sofabed; kids under-12 eat for free and there’s an indoor pool.
Further down the price spectrum, the 2400 Motel with its family studios and suites, some with kitchenettes, makes a good budget base for adventurous families who like something characterful if far from luxurious. It’s particularly good for larger families. Or try the HI-Vancouver Downtown Hostel, with 4-bed family dorms, a games room, a kitchen, a laundry, tours and activities, and mountain-bike hire.
When venturing outside Vancouver, a motorhome will save you money on accommodation and eating out while allowing you the flexibility to explore at least part of this vast region. Yoho National Park (see below) has a number of (expensive) lodges or campsites dotted about it – book ahead, though, as this park is very popular.
The Canadian ski season typically lasts from December to April, but bear in mind that many other attractions close for the winter, which can be bitterly cold.
As in Europe, July and August tend to be the warmest months, with an average temperature of around 17°C in Vancouver. At the end of July Vancouver hosts an international fireworks competition, the Celebration of Light at English Bay, accompanied by live music from the Vancouver Symphony (to avoid the hoards find a spot at Kitsilano Beach or better still hire a boat).
British Columbia has international airports in Vancouver, Abbotsford and Kelowna. Flights from London to Vancouver take about 9hrs 45mins. For great flight deals check Virgin Atlantic and British Airways.
Whistler and Vancouver have every kind of café and restaurant, with pasta, pizza, hot dogs, apple pie and other child-friendly fare readily available. Portions are normally huge, so be careful not to over-order.
Local produce worth looking out for includes maple syrup (great for breakfast with pancakes), wild blueberries, salmon, salt-cured fish and wild game. Alternatively, Vancouver is a great place for Asian food of all kinds but especially sushi and dim sum (the city has a vibrant Chinatown - in fact, the world's second-largest). Beware that the dim sum is very authentic - you'd best not tell the kids what they're eating...
Also in Vancouver, visit tiny Granville Island between downtown and the residential areas – it has a fab food market with each stall/shop offering something totally unique, plus the Kids Market, with two floors of shops, services and activities for families in an old factory, including a play area and a waterpark. The best way to get there is by the tiny Aquabus around the bay.
Sunday brunch is an institution in Vancouver – to the extent that you have to queue just about everywhere. Good spots are Sophie's Cosmic Café and the child-friendly chains Milestones and Earl's, but there are heaps to choose from. Neighbourhood places are generally better than those downtown – Kitsilano is the coolest.
An odd quirks of British Columbia law is that in order to drink alcohol, you must at least have 'the intention to eat' – most places will not expect you to eat but have to ask the question, and you have to answer 'yes' or you won't get served!
The exchange rate makes Canada a more expensive proposition than in recent years, but accommodation and food have historically been cheaper there than in the UK and remain relatively good value.
Reckon on upward of £300 for flights, and – given the fact that, with the distance and jet lag, you would want to spend at least 10 to 14 days there – budget in excess of £1,000 per person.
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